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TATTOOS
GONE GLOBAL
By
Mike McCabe
In
terms of global connectedness, it's not so much that our world is
getting smaller; it's more that our sense of awareness and knowledge
encompasses more and travels distances that used to be unthinkable.
So, in a personal sense, our world is getting larger?much larger.
We know more about more things than ever before and nowhere is this
process better revealed than in the completely internationalized
art form of tattooing. From Beijing to Brooklyn, Tokyo to Shan State
Burma, distinctly different tattoo vocabularies coexist today and
maintain an intriguing sense of distinctness and integrity. So here's
a brief snapshot of five cities and five shops that exemplify the
global trend.
HONG KONG
Tough, tattooed girls wearing next to nothing sit in front of neon-lighted
go-go bars calling out in broken English, "You buy me drink,
no shit!" Groups of suspicious men who know the drill swing
wide on the narrow sidewalk and smile. The stroll along Lockhart
Road in the notorious Wan Chai district of Hong Kong continues to
live up to a reputation that started more than sixty years ago with
Suzie Wong and then peaked as a sailor town during the Korean and
Vietnam wars. The stairs that lead up to Ricky and Pinky's Tattoo
Shop on Lockhart are quiet. The USS Kitty Hawk was scheduled to
dock in Hong Kong, but was turned away due to a diplomatic squabble.
Ricky sits quietly, surrounded by walls overflowing with classic,
hand-drawn tattoo flash. Dragons of every description coil restlessly
into themselves, waiting for some business. A TV with no audience
babbles mildly in Cantonese.
Ricky looks
across the large shop and says in a falling voice, "No payday
this time. Too bad." His words are clouded with a heavy Hong
Kong inflection as he continues. "When Navy in town,"
he says, "Wan Chai still good business. But this new world
now. Sometimes good, sometimes bad. Everything change."
In a different
world not too long ago, sailors collected tattoos from every conceivable
corner of the globe. They became breathing encyclopedias of tattoo
designs shared among a relatively small and private group of appreciators.
The designs traveled slowly between different peoples and cultures:
Hong Kong, Tokyo, Bangkok, Rangoon, New York, Shanghai, Beijing
and the port cities in Europe. The world was a very big, mysterious,
round place. Today, distances have been eliminated electronically
and some are saying "the world is flat" to describe the
new sameness and disappearance of difference between people and
cultures. In contrast, the tattoo world looks very round as it explores
and appreciates new connections between people and places.
China has the
world's largest population, more than one billion people, who are
characterized by tremendous regional and ethnic diversity. The capital,
Beijing, with twelve million people resonates with a cross-section
of Chinese life. Modern skyscrapers stand next to Hutong neighborhoods
that look three hundred years old. Tattooing is becoming very popular
among young, cosmopolitan Beijingers and body art designs reflect
an intersection of traditional Chinese and international influences.
Wang Qing Yuan,
or Kisen Wang, is the president of the Tattoo Artist Association
of China. He has just returned from more than a month in the Himalayas
where he visited the Dulong ethnic group. Until recently, Dulong
women's faces were heavily tattooed with identifying markings as
a way to prevent kidnapping by larger ethnic groups such as Tibetans
or Lisu. In small tribal groups, women are prized for their childbearing
capability and must be protected. Less than fifty women with tattoos
remain and Kisen believes it critical to talk with them and document
their lives.
A month before
Kisen left for his journey, he organized his second Beijing tattoo
convention. Chris O'Donnell and Mike Rubendall from New York Adorned
were invited to attend and exchange art, culture and knowledge with
Chinese tattooers. Paul Booth attended Kisen's first convention
in 2004. The traditional Dulong women and the contemporary Beijing
conventions represent the broad spectrum that describes tattooing
in China today.
"As a tattoo
artist in China I have always felt I must do this kind of thing,"
Kisen says. "The Paul Booth event was a turning point in Chinese
tattoo. Until then, no one was connecting people and giving support.
I always felt it was really important to make an event. To create
some connection. The information was available on the Internet,
so people could see it.
"The second
event was bigger and we invited more foreign artists. Lyle Tuttle
came with Mike and Chris. This was a very big thing for China, so
that Chinese artists could know foreign artists and artwork. Lately,
I have wanted to tell people what real Chinese tattoo culture is
about. The combination of Chinese and foreign artists is important.
"There
are two different areas of Chinese tattoo history that might go
back three thousand years. North of the Chang Jiang River, one tattoo
style developed, in the south a different style. The Han people
are north of the river, Bai Yue people or people of many nationalities
are south. These are two very different Chinese cultures. The Dulong
are a part of the Bai Yue culture.
"I spent
more than a month with the Dulong people in the mountains. This
is a very good example of the kind of tattoo history in China. It
is a unique history because it has a past at the same time it is
experiencing a future. Tattoo artists in China are isolated at this
point. I feel good that I am helping them to discover their past,
so they can bring it with them as they become a part of the modern
tattoo world."
BROOKLYN,
NEW YORK
Tony Polito has been tattooing in the Crown Heights section of Brooklyn,
New York for more than forty years. Angelo Scotto has been tattooing
in the Bronx for nearly as long and shares his shop, Champion Tattoo,
with fellow tattooer Cubo. Other East Coast tattooers like Ronnie
of Ronnie's Tattoo in Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania and Marvin Moskowitz
of Wally's Tattoo in Ronkonkoma, New York (whose father Walter and
uncle Stanley were the legendary Moskowitz Brothers); all these
tattooers continue to preserve through their artistic taste and
mechanical sensibility the original backbone of early twentieth
century American tattooing attributed to the Norfolk, Virginia Navy-town
tattooer, August "Cap" Coleman.
Coleman's directly
rendered, boldly outlined and simply colored tattoos traveled around
the globe and profoundly influenced how tattoos should look. His
perfectly adjusted machine changed a deceptively temperamental technology
into one that got the job done quickly with minimal trauma to the
skin.
"This is
a business and should be conducted properly," says Tony Polito.
"The machine has to run correctly. I set up my machines the
same way the Old Man (Coleman) set up his. Strong outline with heavy,
black shading and simple colors. You cannot tattoo with all this
crazy nonsense. On Saturdays during the summer, I tattoo fifty,
sixty guys. Blackie used to tattoo more than one hundred during
the summer in Coney Island. He told me, 'I could have tattooed around
the clock till it never ended.' Coleman did the same on paydays.
He'd sleep in his shop and never leave.
"The Old
Man visited Charlie Wagner on the Bowery and passed his knowledge
to him. Charlie passed it to Willie Moskowitz, who passed it to
his sons Stanley and Walter, who passed it to Marvin. This is how
the knowledge was taught, by word of mouth. To conduct business
you must set up your machines properly. If you can't see the tattoo
from across the street, it's not a tattoo. The Old Man knew this.
"Today,
a lot of young artists are doing beautiful tattoos. When I look
at the best work, I can see the young artists who understand and
respect the fundamentals. This knowledge started in New York on
the Bowery with O'Reilly and Wagner. Tattooing was a very small
world then, a couple guys here and there. New York is important
because of this. It got passed to other guys from here."
BURMA
It is exotic and unnerving. The broken-up sidewalks in Yangon, Myanmar
(formally Rangoon, Burma), are congested with a dizzying mixture
of southern Asian people. Young street toughs hustle bad money and
underage girls. Their bodies are littered with blurry hand-poked,
jailhouse ink. Looking at the tattoos is like scanning a time warp.
The designs are a feeble selection of motifs taken from fifteen-year-old
Western tattoo magazines. The designs are a barometer of a gaping
cultural separation between the developing and developed worlds.
Three days up-country
in the Shan State, references to the West dim to a flicker. The
infrastructure is a mess, electricity is sporadic at best and Internet
access is nonexistent. At night, rather than watching TV, young
people walk hand in hand, singing traditional songs.
In the town
Taungoo, a Tri-Shot pedi-cab boy wears a battered baseball cap with
what's left of a Nike logo on its crown. His forearms are heavily
tattooed with knife-blade-shaped traditional Shan Thaing fighting
designs. He also has impressive tiger-like tattoos on his thighs.
The other drivers laugh at his display of bravado. His local tattoos
compete in a cultural turf war of relevance with the Nike logo on
his cap.
A traditional
Myanmar tattooer named Thein-tan has been marking Taungoo men with
fighting designs for more than twenty-five years. "The worship
of animistic Nat gods continues in Myanmar," Thein-tan explains.
"There are thirty-seven Nat gods that are helpful to the people.
Young people continue to believe in the Nats, but if they believe
too much their minds will be like shadows.
"Shan tattooing
is more than three hundred years old," he continues. "There
are some designs for life and others for fighting. Some are used
by Nga Tat Phya thieves to make them quiet like a cat. Birthdays
are important for tattoos. There are eight days to a week in Myanmar,
not seven. People remember the day of the week they were born and
get tattoos on that day. Usually people wait for the full stars
to get tattooed.
"People
who work in fields get spider tattoos on their legs and arms as
way to scare snakes. Snakes do not like spiders. Men who fight get
tattooed on their arms with designs of eels. This makes their skin
slippery and difficult to grab. Fighters also have tigers tattooed
on their legs. One climbs up, the other climbs down. Before they
fight, they slap the tattoos to wake up the power of the tiger.
"Many young
men get lotus designs on their chests for protection. People in
Myanmar believe in both Buddha and the Nat spirits. Men and women
might pray to Buddha, but also have a tattoo of a lizard with two
tails. This will attract a new lover. There are five laws to follow
when people get a tattoo: Do not kill, do not steal, do not cheat
on wife, do not lie and do not drink alcohol.
"Shan tattoos
protect but they also help people to think," Thien-tan concludes.
"People should use their tattoos in good ways to give their
bodies and thinking strength. People need this."
BANGKOK
Mr. Heng tattoos from his small apartment located deep in the maze
of narrow old streets and alleys that twist through the Khaosan
Road section of Bangkok, Thailand. He has been marking people with
traditional Thai Buddhist images for sixteen years and first learned
from monks when he was fourteen years old.
"I was
a meditation student with monk Lonta Au Au at Wat Pochai which is
outside Bangkok. Then I went to Wat Bang Phraw and studied traditional
Thai tattooing there with a senior monk named Pain. He taught me
how to use the power of the tattoo.
"I can
tattoo any style, but prefer the old style. I don't make value judgments,
new style or old. I like them all. There are many talented tattoo
artists in Europe and America. They make special and amazing tattoos
but not necessarily magic.
"There
are many traditional tattoo forms. All cultures have these forms,"
says Mr. Heng. "Artists are sensitive to these forms, no matter
where they live. In Thailand these traditional forms are used by
people to change their lives. They go to priests and get tattoos
and instruction about how to use the tattoo for change. In the West
I think that people use the tattoo process to help them change too.
It is just different."
It is very late
at night but Sasha Aleksandar sits talking with Jimmy Wong at his
tattoo shop on Soi Five in Bangkok. Outside in the hallway, the
lights have been turned off and young women step in and out of the
shadows. They play with the darkness, knowing how to use it.
"Gan Kun
Bah (this crazy life)," Jimmy says in Thai, looking at the
passing bar girls. "Poo Ying, same same (bar girls always the
same)."
Jimmy has been
tattooing in Thailand since the Vietnam War period and has chronicled
the history of the practice in his culture. Sasha is from Croatia
in central Europe but like many tattoo artists from around the world,
he has found his way to Jimmy's shop. It is his first trip to Thailand
and he is intrigued with traditional Thai tattooing.
"This traditional
Thai tattooing is interesting to me," says Sasha, "this
belief that the tattoos will change your life. At one time I think
tattooing was like this for everyone. Now, in the West, this is
seen as only superstition. Here it is a different story."
Jimmy responds
saying, "There are still many tattoo ajarn in Bangkok who are
practicing these techniques. Rather than becoming less popular,
it is growing in popularity. Now young women are also getting traditional
tattoos. Before, Thai tattooing was only for men.
"Young
people see tattoos on TV but cannot afford Western style designs,"
Jimmy continues. "They go to see the ajarn instead. In Bangkok
there are many serious ajarn: Ajarn Thong in the Thalad Plue district,
Ajarn Pra-yawt in the Din Dang district, Ajarn John who tattoos
at Wat Tung Set-tee (Fields of Millionaires Temple) and Ajarn Noo.
"Life in
places like Bangkok is more difficult for young people now,"
Jimmy says. "They have bad job, no skills. Bangkok is expensive
place. These young people see wealthy people live luxury life, drive
fancy cars. Maybe they have no hope, so they ask tattoos for help.
I think this is a part of it."
TOKYO
The Shibuya section of Tokyo is totally nuts. The area around the
Yamanote subway station is overflowing with young people drunk on
shopping. Shibuya Horimasa works from his small, private, apartment-style
studio a short walk from the station. The business card on his mailbox
is the only hint he works in the building. A customer waits patiently
in the front room. while a second sits inside at the work station.
Horimasa puffs at his cigarette and fiddles with the fine tuning
of a tattoo machine. Heavy metal music fills the room.
As a Japanese
tattooer, Horimasa has experienced a cross-section of artistic influences
from his own culture, Europe and America. His work reflects a unique
sense of depth that results from an accumulation of experience over
time.
"When I
was younger, I liked Western, one-point styles," says Horimasa.
"At the time, America was a very big influence for young people
in Japan. I am older now and I see the power in Japanese traditional
tattoo styles. It is a strong, powerful style.
"I use
a machine in my work, but I am trying to create a power with my
tattoos. I realize that the traditional Japanese style has such
integrity. I do not want to forget this. Somehow, I try to create
a bridge between the different tattoo styles that impress me. Things
have become so international now," he continues. "I have
gathered influences from many sources and I am inspired by artists
from many places. Young, old. I look and learn from so many artists
around the world. In the future I see tattoo artists creating art
for so many different purposes. Drawing, design, clothing. Collaboration
has changed tattooing in so many ways. Tattoo images have worked
their way into so many different places. Yushi at Scratch Addiction
says, 'Tattoo is now a glue that connects many things. Many different
people with different perspectives come together.' Yushi is right!
The common denominator is tattooing.
"Tattoo
people are excited about the differences between people, cultures
and styles. They are NOT excited about the sameness of things. I
think tattoo is good this way. Everything around the world can become
the same, but not with tattoo. There is such strength knowing this."
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