MAY 2000 — FEATURE STORY
LE TATAU TATTOO INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION
November 8-12, 1999
By Keone Nunes
Le Tatau-Tattoo Convention was held November 8-12, 1999, at the Tooa Salamasina Hall in Apia on the island of Upolu, Samoa. I missed the first day because of some logistical problems, so I arrived on the night of the eighth. When I got to the Tooa Salamasina Hall the next morning, I was very happy to see the turnout of tattooists from all over the world. There were 23 countries represented at this convention with over 60 visiting artists. The people of Samoa were very interested in the event and relished the opportunity to get even a small tattoo from the likes of Leo Zulueta, Jorgen Kristiansen, Te Rangi Kaihoro and Gordon Toi. The Samoan tufuga ta tatau (tattoo experts) were also well represented by the Sa Su'a, and Sa Tulouega. The Samoan tattooists worked their magic on stage while everyone else formed a circle around the inside of the hall. This was a time in which the Samoan tufuga all came together and worked, talked and played together for the first time in many years.
The focus of this convention was not to make money, but to learn about the strength and beauty of the Samoan pe'a and malu, and to share the various traditions of tattooing. The third day of festivities consisted of a trip to the village of Falealupo on the island of Savai'i, the place where the twins Taema and Tilafaiga came up to shore with the tattooing tools given to them in Fiji. Savai'i is larger than Upolu, but less populated. The landscape is much like its northern counterpart Hawai'i, down to remnants of recent lava flows. At Falealupo, traditional ceremonies were presented to all the visiting artists, and formal gifts were given to key representatives of Europe, the U.S., Hawai'i, Aotearoa and the Tufuga families that were present. As the majority of the contingent made way to the seashore where the twins first arrived, several of us headed to the site via van. As we exited, we realized that we were the first of the group to reach the sacred site and were overcome with the sacredness of the location and the meaning of the chants and prayers that followed.
That night we are treated to a Samoan show, but the real show was after with Paulo Suluape and Bob Baxter playing their guitars, and Le Samoli relaxing in the fale. The lightning and the rainbow column that greeted us the next morning confirmed the power of the prayers at Falealupo. Before leaving Savai'i, several of us had an impromptu meeting with Paulo. Paulo expressed his gratitude for our attendance and apologized for any lack of organization. Commitments were made to continue the education of Pacific tattooing traditions in the next several years. Representatives from Tahiti, Hawai'i and Aotearoa agreed to work toward this throughout the next several years. Paulo stated his desire to see Pacific Island tattooists come together to share these important traditions with the world.
Upon our return to Upolu, we participated in an evening contest where awards were given in various categories, including best Samoan, Hawaiian, Marquesan and Maori tattoos—categories not usually found at other conventions. That was the final formal event outside of a reception at a local pub.
This was a very important event and everyone enjoyed themselves. The people that attended did so because of their interest in the foundation of tattooing. The people that participated were reason for the success of this convention, not necessarily the event itself. This convention has set a foundation for others. There is a necessity to improve on any event and this is no exception. My suggestion would be for the organizers to let some of the tattooists in on the planning of such events so they can give their input on the unique needs of tattooists. Many tattooists from the U.S. and Europe want to see more Pacific tattooing and hear about those traditions. Some basic orientation on the protocol of Samoan tattooing and traditional ceremonies would have averted some unknowingly inappropriate actions by visiting tattooists. Better security should also be instituted. Despite these concerns, everyone I spoke with was very happy with the sharing, learning and new friendships that were all part of the Le Tatau Tattoo International Convention.
As an after note, I was very glad I was able to attend the convention and speak and visit with Paulo. He intended to come to Hawai'i in the new year, in order to do some work. That was the last time I spoke with him. No one could have predicted the tragedy that would happen less than two weeks later that resulted in his death. Although he is not physically with us, Paulo's legacy and dreams live on through all the Pacific Island tattooist that he taught and the multitude of people that he tattooed.
—Keone Nunes